Day 48
6:00am
After a quick breakfast we ran another round of fair wells, knowing we would be seeing our grandparents again in just over nice days, and started driving. Our reason for leaving so early was primarily due to it being the middle of summer, and we did not have a reservation to camp in Yosemite, rivaling the Grand Canyon for crowds, and was notorious for having first come first serve campsites fill up well before nine am.
He drive to the south gate of the park was a short hour and a half. Stopping along the way in a small town where I still had cell reception to make an attempt at Half Dome permits. This being only the second year since Yosemite has required permits to hike the most famous trail in the park, the system was still glitchy and difficult. The permit system only allows 450 people to hike up to the summit each day, with 400 of those pre reserved many months in advance. Leaving us with a small chance of getting two of the remaining fifty. The permits went on sale promptly at. 7:00am, and we were trying our hand at them at the stroke of the hour. Zach on the phone, myself on the internet. By 7:02am Zach had struck out on the phone, and was the proud owner of two passes to climb Half Dome tomorrow. There would have been no way to get the permits had we waited until we were in the valley.
We even arrived early enough to not show our pass to get into the park. The ranger kiosk didn't open until 8:00. The real drag was the slow crawl into the valley. Now usually the 15 mile, one hour drive into the valley was due to slow tourists, and wildlife. In our case we had the pleasure of entering the valley while a large wildfire was being let burn near the Mariposa Cedar Grove. This severally hampered our progression, and even when we finally broke from the end of the tunnel, where your first breath stopping view would have been, the valley was thick with a layer of hazy smoke.
We made haste to the primary first come first serve campground. Simply called "Camp 4". Primarily a climbers campground nestled up against the granite cliffs nearest to "El Capitan" the world renowned 3000ft cliff face. Arriving at the campground we were greeted by a line of people waiting patiently for the kiosk to open. Some in chairs, others standing, and a number in sleeping bags napping in the queue, like they had been there all night. We knew they had not, but it gave us a scare that we were to late.
The morning was cold, and the stink of smoke hung in the air as we waited. Chatting up a few people in like revealed that not only was camp 4 one of the most sought after campgrounds, and a walk in campground, it was also a shared site campground. Meaning that for each campsite, they sleep 6 people, period. So Zach and I would be sharing the fire pit, picnic table, and tent pitching area with 4 other people. I was kind of excited by the idea, as it would create forced interaction, which I'm a fan of.
Arriving early ended up paying off, and we got a site near to the restroom for three nights. Joining four people who had already been there for a day, and we found out would be staying almost the full seven days allotted. I shrugged off that they didn't seem the social type, and we wouldn't have anyone else cycling through, at least not early on. We set up camp, and hauled all food, toiletries, and anything with a scent to the campsite to store in the bear box. Rangers would ticket you for anything left in a vehicle, food or otherwise. Someone had a ticket for leaving some chapstick in the center console. We weren't taking any chances. We even had a special resident set up at the campsite across from us. We came to call him "Dirty Man" as that is precisely what he was. A self proclaimed hiker, and the dirtiest man we had ever seen. With short shorts to boot.
After getting all set up the morning was still young, and we needed to escape dirty man. So we took our customary trip to the visitors center to speak with a ranger. They seem to know the best hikes, as they are hiking enthusiasts themselves. Having tomorrow filled with Half Dome, we decided today would be perfect for a warmup hike. We settled on the 5mi hike out of the canyon, up to the Glacier Point Overlook. A great viewing spot for Half Dome, El Capitan, Vernal Falls, Nevada Falls, and Yosemite Falls. Pretty much everything in the valley. It was also an interesting hike because the tourists would be thick at the top, due to being able to drive two hours the long way to get up there. Doing a major summit hike, and having your run of the mill bright colored fanny pack wearing tourists at the top would be a new experience. Usually we are greeted by rugged hikers, or climbers.
Despite the tourists, thick as smoke, and despite the smoke, the views were spectacular and Ansel Adams picturesque, but with color... But not much... What with the smoke and all... Anyway, we spent some time at the summit, and quickly realized we needed to get back into the valley before the smoke got the better of us, and our hiking ability.
Day 49
6:00am
Half Dome. Since I was young I have always revered Half Dome as one of the great achievements one can attain in life. Today is a bucket list day, and this great dome is about to fall under the weight of my mighty boot.
Our breakfast this morning was double duty oatmeal and pop tarts. We would need the energy, and those S'mores pop tarts are just to good. I snuck one into my pack for the hike.
Six am we woke, by seven we stood at the base of the trail, having parked a distance from the trailhead. Apparently we were leaving late, as the parking lot was already full. The trailhead, and all along the trail we crossed missing persons signs. Pictures of two out of three young people who had slipped into the river just a few weeks prior, and plunged over Vernal Falls. One of the three bodies had been recovered. We paid silent respect, keeping our eyes on the rushing water for any sign of them.
This year has been one of the highest years for fatalities within the park. 16 deaths, if you count the two that passed away outside the park from injuries sustained within. Two weeks ago a young woman fell from the vary cables we would soon be climbing up to Half Domes summit. One week ago a young high schooler slipped on the climb up Vernal Falls hitting his head. He passed in the hospital outside the park. I only list these as a reminder of the caution, and respect that must be given in our park system. This isn't Disneyland.
Getting back to today's hike, our first main stop took us up the mist trail under Vernal Falls. Aptly named for the constant spray from the waterfall onto the steep climbing path. This trail was the steeper route, but saved us distance in the long run. After a brief stop near the top of the falls, we continued up the steep switchbacks passed Nevada Falls, which we decided to visit on the way back down.
Arriving at the top of the switches we were greeted by a simple, yet exciting sign, telling us that we were joining the John Muir trail. A 215 mile section of the Pacific Crest Trial that stretched from Yosemite up to Mount Whitney without crossing a single road or power line. The longest such stretch along the PCT. Our hike along the Muir trail was short, and choked with horse dust, although the smoke today settled down into the valley. The fresh air was a nice relief when we did break off of the Muir trail for the final three mile push to the summit, and the cables. The total mileage one way turned out to be right about 9.5mi, with the small fall side trips included.
The last three miles up to the base of the first smaller dome was a steady increase in altitude. Bringing us up near 8,000ft. Once at the base of the small dome we were confronted by a ranger, and her sidekick, checking names on a list of permitted hikers. Once we were given access to make the final ascent, we started the near vertical switchbacks up the small dome towards the cables. In my opinion this was the most difficult portion of the hike, and used up much of my water, and extra energy I would have had.
Cresting the round of the smaller dome, the sudden vertigo inducing sight of the Half Dome cable system came into view. "The cables" are only 400ft long, running up the steep side of the dome. They are intended as an artificial climbing system preventing the need for full climbing gear to scale Half Dome. They are nearly vertical in some places, and barely wide enough for one going up, let along someone coming down. This of course really slowed things down, and made the cables the worlds scariest queue. Taking us over 30 minutes to climb, they were more of a bother then anything else, and to me were the easiest portion of the hike.
The summit! We hike half dome! And we did it with time to spare. Beating people to the top who had started a whole two hours before us. Speed Doming, it's all the rage. We spent about 45 minutes atop the dome, ate lunch, walked about a bit. I apparently gave people a little scare when I found my comfortable sitting spot. Vertical distance, horizontal distance. Same thing right? Whats a couple thousand feet? I earned each one on the hike up. Apparently we missed the memo that today was in fact Onsie Wednesday, several groups coming up the mountain did in fact hike the whole way in one piece pajamas. How fantastic!
The hike down we had some nice momentum going, gaining our second wind. Getting back onto the John Muir trail in under an hour and a half. We had to take a quick brake for a swim to clean off some of the dirt that had been caking our legs and feet from today's, and yesterday's hikes. BRRR! That water was so cold! Though we could have expected as much, considering our altitude, and the snow melting just up river. Despite the cold, the water was a burst of refreshing energy, and hiking wet is the best!
As promised, we took the long way back down, circumventing the steep mist trail, and instead hiking the John Muir trail over to Nevada Falls. Which is where we found all the people eager to remove themselves from the gene pool. If it is not apparent in the photograph, we are a mere 30 yards from the top of Nevada Falls, a 517ft fall to certain death. Here we found over thirty tourists swimming, and wadding out onto the rocks, as casually as a day at the beach. Thirty miles of river, and they hop the fence, pass the warning sign, and swim within spitting distance of a massive waterfalls raging death grip! We almost just sat down to watch, knowing someone would go over sooner or later, but we were tired so we pressed on. Leaving the fools to their folly. Along the way down we got some fabulous shots of the backside of Half Dome, as well as Liberty Cap, and Nevada Falls.
We made it down just as the sun was setting, marking off nineteen more miles to the total. Back at camp we found our site void of life, they must have been out climbing. We took advantage of the quite, limping around the camp we prepared a nice dinner of canned raviolis, and almost immediately crashed. Sleep has never felt so good.
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