Today started like every other, a brisk breakfast of coffee and oatmeal, packing up camp, and hitting the road. Today is our final day of heading north. Jasper National Park is connected to Banffs' northern edge, making the entirety of these parks five times the size of Yellowstone National Park. Surprisingly we have had very limited interaction with wildlife in these parks, aside from the occasional marmot, or raven. Though these parks are supposed to be home to Caribou, Wolverine, Bigfoot and Lynx, I'm starting to think them all fairytale.
After several hours of driving we stopped at what is claimed to be " The greatest natural wonder of the northwest." the Athabasca Ice Field. A massive glacier reaching from the top of the mountain down almost to the road. It was a spectacular sight, and they even had a bus tour that would take you half way up the glacier to sightsee. Unfortunately for $50 a ticket we passed. Instead we ate at the all you can eat Chinese buffet overlooking the glacier, read our books, drank coffee and got stuffed on sweet and sour pork. Our seat near the window was the perfect viewing area for the glacier, and I couldn't have asked for a better way to eat my lunch.
After lunch, we waddled over the the glacier, climbed the steep grade to the viewing area, hating ourselves on the way up. So much food. It was all worth it, getting close to the glacier, and seeing how far it had receded in the past few years was stunning. I guess that's climate change for you. Not that I think climate change is our fault...
Anyway, we hopped the barricade keeping us from getting close to the danger of the glacier. Its' crevasses, fast moving water, and cracking ice. We had to get some close up shots so we shouldered the risk. And I promptly stepped in the wrong place, sinking my foot into muddy clay over my boot. I guess it's what I get for crossing the line. Zach of course survived the experience unscathed.
With still another 125k to drive we continued north. Our next stop came quicker then expected, at Athabasca Falls. The famous waterfall flows the same deep blue green due to the silt rich glacier water. As beautiful as the falls were, the real beauty was the narrow and twisted slot canyon the water flowed through leading out into a wide expanse of river. We picked our way down to the shore of the river below the falls, to find that people had taken the stones and stacked them into many cairns. All different heights, and varying degrees of balance. Some seemed to even defy gravity. It was majestic and serene.
Our campground was nothing special, no electric fence this time. We would have to defend ourselves the old fashion way. Despite the rangers recommendation for when we saw a bear. She just said to take some pictures. Hmm. We set up camp in the rain again, though we had no qualms with it, as the campground was empty, and we were right on the river. The only downside was the restroom was quite a walk, and there were no showers. Still hardly roughing it.
After setting up camp we decided to head to the town of Jasper, only 20k north, and go to the visitors center to find a hike for tomorrow. Jasper was like any small tourist town. Overpriced, crowded and quaint. Zach suddenly had fantastic cell service, so he made a few phone calls, and I wandered off in search of an open Wi-Fi network. After over an hour of wandering town looking like a half crazed American woodsman, (not so far from the truth) I still was unable to find an open Wi-Fi network. Despite every shop in town having a locked one. I even asked a few shop people if they would allow me use of the network for a few minutes, and it was like asking for free food at a restaurant. Needless to say I got nowhere, and looked the fool in the process. On the walk back to see if Zach noticed my sudden disappearance I noticed a small wine store, with an excellent beer selection. I had to stop in, and was not disappointed. The shop had a great wine selection, was affordable, and had a walk in refrigerated beer room. I purchased a nice Barley Wine, a large bottle of Hefe-wiezen and an Old Rasputin stout. They would serve as a delicious dinner for the two of us.
We arrived back at the campground just as the heavy rain started. It rained and rained. The hardest yet on this trip. But we paid it no mind, the beer kept our thoughts light, and our blood warm. It was a good evening, and the rain continued into the night thwarting our odds of seeing the Aurora Borealis. We didn't care.
Day 29
For today's hike we decided to do a portion of the Edith Cavell backpacking loop. The entire loops totals almost 40k, winding through green valleys, past deep lakes, and up towering mountains. It sounded like just the thing to get as much of Jasper in the single day we had. And Edith Cavell sounded like potential for caves.
A few kilometers above the trailhead we stopped at what we originally thought to be caves given the name Edith Cavell. Instead it was another glacier with a lake beneath it's slowly receding ice. We didn't complain, as every glacier was stunning in it's own right, and with the fresh snow from last night high on its' peaks, avalanches would be ripe to occur. Cresting the hill of the short hike to the glacier we were greeted by something we had given up on. An ice cave! Of course it was just by chance that the Cavell glacier did in fact have an ice cave, we were quite happy to add it to our list of amazing things.
Even though the temperature did not climb above 50° while near the glacier it felt warm compared to the freezing wind blowing without end from deep within the ice cave. Truly arctic.
After the short hike near the glacier we made our way back to the trailhead of the backpacking route we planned to hike earlier. To our surprise, as soon as we started hiking the clouds broke, and the sun shone down, raising the air temperature by at least ten degrees. It was perfect hiking weather. Of course we still had to contend with the mud on the trail, beaten to sludge by the horses that traveled the trail before us. But the sun shone and that's all that mattered. We even used the opportunity to photograph some of the plant life along the trail.
As trails go this one was easy, almost no altitude change, and aside from the mud, easy to walk on and follow. We decided to turn back after 7k, as the rain was coming back. I decided to try something different for the return trip, and instead of listen to music, I turned on a movie I've practically memorized "Scott Pilgrim Vs. the World" and listened to the audio. Honestly it worked quite well, watching the movie from memory reconstructed from the audio was great! And it came with a spectacular view.
After the short hike we popped into Jasper for a quick dinner at A&W, a place I've never eaten, but Zach swore by. And he wasn't wrong, aside from the Canadian impulse to put the revolting sauce known as mayonnaise on everything, (I caught on early and got my burger dry) it was a good experience. We read while we ate, happy as old dogs laying in front of a hearth.
I do admit I've done more reading then is probably healthy on this trip, in these 29 days I've finished five novels, and am devouring the sixth. By trips end I'm planning to start and finish the R.R. Martin game of thrones series, another 5 novels. Zach is reading just as much as I, he is about to finish the Game of Thrones books, and is going to have to start reading my books. It's not a bad thing.
Tomorrow we drive ten hours to Vancouver BC where I can finally post these entries. Sleep comes early tonight so we can get as early a start as possible.
MILEAGE:
Driving-
This trip: 308
Total: 3773
Walking-
This trip: 9
Total:183
No comments:
Post a Comment