Day 53
Our stench is permeating our sleeping bags, and the dirt coming off of our skin staining them. Bummer. But we have nothing we can do to fix the problem, so we are just going to have to roll with it. No matter, today we are driving an hour and a half to the least visited section of the park, the Hetch Hetchy.
The Hetch Hetchy valley was quoted by John Muir to be Yosemite Valleys equal. Featuring towering cliffs, cascading waterfalls, and beautiful alpine meadows, in John Muirs time. By 1938 he valley had been dammed, and turned into a reservoir for San Francisco, despite a massive effort by John Muir to protect the valley. Today the Hetch Hetchy is still beautiful, although most of it is underwater, there are still several waterfalls running into the reservoir, and the tops of monoliths, and cliffs are still visible. There is an active effort to return the valley to its natural state, so far with no success.
Despite not being able to swim in the reservoir, our experience in the Hetch Hetchy was a good break from the crowded valley. Literally there were no more then 50 other people on the whole area, and most of those were not in for the long hikes. The hike we settled on would take us four miles around the lake, past Wawuna Falls, then up into the hills 2.5 miles to Ranchero Falls.
The first portion of the hike lead us across the dam, through a tunnel, and then wound it's way relatively level along what used to be a ridge, next to the reservoir. Along the way I took a quick dip in an unnamed water pool, past the Wawuna Falls, and eventually made our way up to the secluded Ranchero Falls. The later featured deep pools, a sandy beach, and the falls themselves cascaded over the rocks in several large pours. What a prefect place to spend the afternoon.
After swimming and sunning on the sand, we made our way back down, and back towards the dam. Along the way, we stopped to take another dip in Wawuna Falls, where I promptly bashed my shin on a rock, and had to limp the rest of the way back to the car.
Wrapping up the day, we drove back to camp 4, surprised to see that there was space available. The first time all week the line of people in the morning had not taken every space. Our campsite only had two other people in it. Surprisingly. Unfortunately they did not speak English.
Tomorrow we will be going up to the Tuolumne Meadows, high above the valley in the high Sierras. So we decided to pack everything except for the tent tonight, to give us a quick leave tomorrow. From what we hear, the campground in Tuolumne fills up quickly, and we didn't want to take any chances. We would hope to arrive by eight am tomorrow morning.
Day 54
From what we have heard about the Tuolumne Meadows campground, it is similar to camp 4 in that you must arrive very early in the morning to get a site walking in. Because of this, we packed up what little we had not the night before, and left by 6:00am. We were told the drive up to the meadows would take us at least two hours, and we did not want to take any chances, as there was only one campground up there.
The drive turned out to only take us an hour and a half, despite getting stuck behind a ridiculously slow van. Upon arrival we were greeted by the familiar line of people waiting patiently outside of the ranger office, some in chairs, some sitting on bear canisters, but everyone bundled up in warm clothing. Of course we get out of the car in our shorts and t-shirts not realizing that the temperature had dropped by nearly 30° from 75°. In the valley to 45° in the meadows. This being the temperature in the morning, we knew we were in for some cold nights ahead of us.
Success getting a campsite. We set up in the A loop, located right next to a nice river, and somewhat secluded from trailers, and RVs. I think we got the cream of the crop. As a little reward for our success, and the rushed breakfast, we walked down to the small store/grill located next to the ranger station. We were surprised to find some of the Pacific Crest Trail hikers picking up packages from the post office, that they had mailed to themselves from more south on the trial. We kind of made ourselves at home around them, grabbing a breakfast sandwich from the grill, and a lollipop from the store. (as it turns out lollipops are excellent trail candy)
The day still young, we grabbed a map, and picked a nice 8 mile trail leading up into the Mono Pass. At this point we were really itching to get into the high Sierras, and Mono pass would give us some stunning views over both the east, and west sides of the mountains. The trail also would give us a taste of what the meadows had to offer, from trickling brooks and colorful wild flowers, to wind swept granite rock faces, and long forgotten lakes. And as we set out on the trail, we got just that. At first we walked a calming level trail, winding through tall pine trees, past creeks, and grassy meadows. When almost instantly the trial climbed a series of switchbacks, and we gradually noticed the trees growing smaller, the rock becoming more prevalent, and the wind racing past towards some unknown goal.
As we reached the crest of the trail, and the boarder of Yosemite National Park, we found several small lakes nestled into the hillside, as if to protect the ancient miners cabins crumbling on their southern shores. Just a quarter mile past them, having left Yosemite, we found the view we were searching for. The east spread out beneath our feet as a vast still sea. Mono Lake reflecting the sun as if it, this dead vapid pool, had some life still to offer. This place truly could be called home.
After the serenity of the mountain pass, and the exhaustion from the day before, we decided to spend the remainder of the afternoon relaxing at our "earned" campsite. Even though we soon found out that the campground did not fill up until close to noon.
The beer was cold, and the chips divine. We sat, napped and snacked. Life was good, though the thought of our trips completion loomed on the fringes of our minds like a dark cloud. A threat of the coming reality. But for now, bliss and sleep.
Day 55
As the final week of this trip approaches, we decided today would be a day for a monumental hike. This hike we settled on would take us on a 21 mile loop up into the higher alpine meadows, past several lakes, and through the high Sierra camp Vogelsang.
We started hiking promptly at 8:30am, leaving straight from camp, as the trailhead was almost directly behind our campsite. The first seven miles of the hike were a gradual climb along trickling streams, through alpine meadows carpeted with wild flowers, and eventually a flat plateau where Vogelsang camp was perched. This initial section of hike was very similar to the Mono Pass hike from yesterday, touting all off the beauty of the high Sierras.
Upon reaching Voglesang, we had the opportunity to use the pit toilets, and look around the camp. From what we hear, getting a reservation to backpack to the camp is very difficult, and must be done many months in advance. This is due in part to the very nice canvas cabins with their own heating stoves, and the more modern amenities offered, such as pit toilets, showers, and a kitchen/dinning structure. All pretty impressive considering how far from civilization we are. I would not mind doing a backpack trip p here sometime in the future.
Leaving Vogelsang, we still had roughly 1500ft of elevation gain, and more miles to the top of the ridge. Along the way we crossed a stunning meadow, encroached upon by two lakes, split by the stream running between them, and surrounded by the grey granite peaks off the Sierras. Zach is seriously considering building a summer home here. Not really, but the 360° beauty are a real draw.
After cresting at 10600ft, we started the steep decent back down into the valley, to meet with, and hike, the John Muir/Pacific Crest Trail. The descent was harrowing, with nearly 2600ft in under 2.5 miles, I was quite thankful that we did not decided to come up this way. Once at the bottom, Zach gott an interesting compliment from a young girl on the trail who said: "I like your extra feet.". Referring of course to his trekking poles. From the mouths of babes they say.
Of course after the steep walk down, and more oxygen, the flat John Muir trail was a piece of cake, and despite the crystal clear river calling my name, we made extremely good time back to the camp. Bringing us back into camp at exactly 4:00pm, a brisk time of 7.5 hours total. What a nice feather in the cap of this trip, we have certainly come a long way since Havasupai. In fact the other reason we decided to do this long hike today was so we could mark down 100 miles hiked in our short time in Yosemite National Park.
Getting back to camp, the folks in the site next to us asked if they might use some space in our bear box, as they made the common camping mistake of bringing to much food. We of course offered what space we had, recording an invite to share a beer later as a thank you.
After a quick bath in the river and with the promise of beer in the future, we trotted off the campfire program led by ranger B-Rad, formerly known as Brad. We have come to find the rangers takes not only educational, but highly entertaining, and B-Rad didn't fail us. His talk was about the only federally endangered species in Yosemite, and his quest to find it. The Sierra Bighorn Sheep. A different sheep then the desert, or Colorado bighorn. Which have all eluded us on this trip, to my dismay. Unlike it's cousins, the Sierra Bighorn has a more flared set of horns, and there are only 400 of them known to exist. No wonder it took him 3 years of looking to see his first sheep, and we find out that the largest herd of these rare sheep are located in Mono Pass. If only we had known yesterday. Bummer.
Slightly down about missing the opportunity to see the bighorns, and yet in bright spirit, thanks to B-Rads ram hat, we made our way fumbling through the dark back to camp. We did end up accepting a beer and some lint conversation from the folk next to us, and despite being a beer drinker, the guy who invited us works in Napa crunching numbers for several large wineries in the area. This made for some great conversation, and perhaps a job opportunity if things go that way. We shall see.
Yosemite comes to a close, as tomorrow we drive down the mountain back to Clovis for one night, and then it's back into the Sierras for Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.
MILEAGE:
Driving-
This trip: 191
Total: 6754
Walking-
This trip: 100
Total:318
















