Yosemite 3

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Day 53

Our stench is permeating our sleeping bags, and the dirt coming off of our skin staining them. Bummer. But we have nothing we can do to fix the problem, so we are just going to have to roll with it. No matter, today we are driving an hour and a half to the least visited section of the park, the Hetch Hetchy.
The Hetch Hetchy valley was quoted by John Muir to be Yosemite Valleys equal. Featuring towering cliffs, cascading waterfalls, and beautiful alpine meadows, in John Muirs time. By 1938 he valley had been dammed, and turned into a reservoir for San Francisco, despite a massive effort by John Muir to protect the valley. Today the Hetch Hetchy is still beautiful, although most of it is underwater, there are still several waterfalls running into the reservoir, and the tops of monoliths, and cliffs are still visible. There is an active effort to return the valley to its natural state, so far with no success.
Despite not being able to swim in the reservoir, our experience in the Hetch Hetchy was a good break from the crowded valley. Literally there were no more then 50 other people on the whole area, and most of those were not in for the long hikes. The hike we settled on would take us four miles around the lake, past Wawuna Falls, then up into the hills 2.5 miles to Ranchero Falls.
The first portion of the hike lead us across the dam, through a tunnel, and then wound it's way relatively level along what used to be a ridge, next to the reservoir. Along the way I took a quick dip in an unnamed water pool, past the Wawuna Falls, and eventually made our way up to the secluded Ranchero Falls. The later featured deep pools, a sandy beach, and the falls themselves cascaded over the rocks in several large pours. What a prefect place to spend the afternoon.
After swimming and sunning on the sand, we made our way back down, and back towards the dam. Along the way, we stopped to take another dip in Wawuna Falls, where I promptly bashed my shin on a rock, and had to limp the rest of the way back to the car.
Wrapping up the day, we drove back to camp 4, surprised to see that there was space available. The first time all week the line of people in the morning had not taken every space. Our campsite only had two other people in it. Surprisingly. Unfortunately they did not speak English.
Tomorrow we will be going up to the Tuolumne Meadows, high above the valley in the high Sierras. So we decided to pack everything except for the tent tonight, to give us a quick leave tomorrow. From what we hear, the campground in Tuolumne fills up quickly, and we didn't want to take any chances. We would hope to arrive by eight am tomorrow morning.

Day 54

From what we have heard about the Tuolumne Meadows campground, it is similar to camp 4 in that you must arrive very early in the morning to get a site walking in. Because of this, we packed up what little we had not the night before, and left by 6:00am. We were told the drive up to the meadows would take us at least two hours, and we did not want to take any chances, as there was only one campground up there.
The drive turned out to only take us an hour and a half, despite getting stuck behind a ridiculously slow van. Upon arrival we were greeted by the familiar line of people waiting patiently outside of the ranger office, some in chairs, some sitting on bear canisters, but everyone bundled up in warm clothing. Of course we get out of the car in our shorts and t-shirts not realizing that the temperature had dropped by nearly 30° from 75°. In the valley to 45° in the meadows. This being the temperature in the morning, we knew we were in for some cold nights ahead of us.
Success getting a campsite. We set up in the A loop, located right next to a nice river, and somewhat secluded from trailers, and RVs. I think we got the cream of the crop. As a little reward for our success, and the rushed breakfast, we walked down to the small store/grill located next to the ranger station. We were surprised to find some of the Pacific Crest Trail hikers picking up packages from the post office, that they had mailed to themselves from more south on the trial. We kind of made ourselves at home around them, grabbing a breakfast sandwich from the grill, and a lollipop from the store. (as it turns out lollipops are excellent trail candy)
The day still young, we grabbed a map, and picked a nice 8 mile trail leading up into the Mono Pass. At this point we were really itching to get into the high Sierras, and Mono pass would give us some stunning views over both the east, and west sides of the mountains. The trail also would give us a taste of what the meadows had to offer, from trickling brooks and colorful wild flowers, to wind swept granite rock faces, and long forgotten lakes. And as we set out on the trail, we got just that. At first we walked a calming level trail, winding through tall pine trees, past creeks, and grassy meadows. When almost instantly the trial climbed a series of switchbacks, and we gradually noticed the trees growing smaller, the rock becoming more prevalent, and the wind racing past towards some unknown goal.
As we reached the crest of the trail, and the boarder of Yosemite National Park, we found several small lakes nestled into the hillside, as if to protect the ancient miners cabins crumbling on their southern shores. Just a quarter mile past them, having left Yosemite, we found the view we were searching for. The east spread out beneath our feet as a vast still sea. Mono Lake reflecting the sun as if it, this dead vapid pool, had some life still to offer. This place truly could be called home.
After the serenity of the mountain pass, and the exhaustion from the day before, we decided to spend the remainder of the afternoon relaxing at our "earned" campsite. Even though we soon found out that the campground did not fill up until close to noon.
The beer was cold, and the chips divine. We sat, napped and snacked. Life was good, though the thought of our trips completion loomed on the fringes of our minds like a dark cloud. A threat of the coming reality. But for now, bliss and sleep.

Day 55

As the final week of this trip approaches, we decided today would be a day for a monumental hike. This hike we settled on would take us on a 21 mile loop up into the higher alpine meadows, past several lakes, and through the high Sierra camp Vogelsang.
We started hiking promptly at 8:30am, leaving straight from camp, as the trailhead was almost directly behind our campsite. The first seven miles of the hike were a gradual climb along trickling streams, through alpine meadows carpeted with wild flowers, and eventually a flat plateau where Vogelsang camp was perched. This initial section of hike was very similar to the Mono Pass hike from yesterday, touting all off the beauty of the high Sierras.
Upon reaching Voglesang, we had the opportunity to use the pit toilets, and look around the camp. From what we hear, getting a reservation to backpack to the camp is very difficult, and must be done many months in advance. This is due in part to the very nice canvas cabins with their own heating stoves, and the more modern amenities offered, such as pit toilets, showers, and a kitchen/dinning structure. All pretty impressive considering how far from civilization we are. I would not mind doing a backpack trip p here sometime in the future.
Leaving Vogelsang, we still had roughly 1500ft of elevation gain, and more miles to the top of the ridge. Along the way we crossed a stunning meadow, encroached upon by two lakes, split by the stream running between them, and surrounded by the grey granite peaks off the Sierras. Zach is seriously considering building a summer home here. Not really, but the 360° beauty are a real draw.
After cresting at 10600ft, we started the steep decent back down into the valley, to meet with, and hike, the John Muir/Pacific Crest Trail. The descent was harrowing, with nearly 2600ft in under 2.5 miles, I was quite thankful that we did not decided to come up this way. Once at the bottom, Zach gott an interesting compliment from a young girl on the trail who said: "I like your extra feet.". Referring of course to his trekking poles. From the mouths of babes they say.
Of course after the steep walk down, and more oxygen, the flat John Muir trail was a piece of cake, and despite the crystal clear river calling my name, we made extremely good time back to the camp. Bringing us back into camp at exactly 4:00pm, a brisk time of 7.5 hours total. What a nice feather in the cap of this trip, we have certainly come a long way since Havasupai. In fact the other reason we decided to do this long hike today was so we could mark down 100 miles hiked in our short time in Yosemite National Park.
Getting back to camp, the folks in the site next to us asked if they might use some space in our bear box, as they made the common camping mistake of bringing to much food. We of course offered what space we had, recording an invite to share a beer later as a thank you.
After a quick bath in the river and with the promise of beer in the future, we trotted off the campfire program led by ranger B-Rad, formerly known as Brad. We have come to find the rangers takes not only educational, but highly entertaining, and B-Rad didn't fail us. His talk was about the only federally endangered species in Yosemite, and his quest to find it. The Sierra Bighorn Sheep. A different sheep then the desert, or Colorado bighorn. Which have all eluded us on this trip, to my dismay. Unlike it's cousins, the Sierra Bighorn has a more flared set of horns, and there are only 400 of them known to exist. No wonder it took him 3 years of looking to see his first sheep, and we find out that the largest herd of these rare sheep are located in Mono Pass. If only we had known yesterday. Bummer.
Slightly down about missing the opportunity to see the bighorns, and yet in bright spirit, thanks to B-Rads ram hat, we made our way fumbling through the dark back to camp. We did end up accepting a beer and some lint conversation from the folk next to us, and despite being a beer drinker, the guy who invited us works in Napa crunching numbers for several large wineries in the area. This made for some great conversation, and perhaps a job opportunity if things go that way. We shall see.
Yosemite comes to a close, as tomorrow we drive down the mountain back to Clovis for one night, and then it's back into the Sierras for Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.


MILEAGE:

Driving-

This trip: 191
Total: 6754

Walking-

This trip: 100
Total:318

Yosemite 2

Day 50

Our original plan for today was to hike to the backside of El Capitan. Well, that didn't happen. The pain ripped through our lower extremities, convincing us we needed a recovery day before we jumped into another 18+ mile hike.
In place of El Capitan we decided to seek out one of the secrets of the valley. The Devils Hot tub, a supposed pool, high above the tree line, fed, and warmed by tears of water running several thousand feet down the warm granite rock face. We first heard of the tub through our mutual friend Tim Snider, who lived in the valley for an extended period of time. I believe three months.
Part of the adventure of finding the tub was the true lack of trail, and the rock scrambling we found to be involved. Our first step was to get our bearings. Searching the cliffs for streams of water matching the description. The search took a few minutes, but we spotted two separate rivulets trickling down the granite in the general area of where it was supposed to be. We quickly strode in the direction of the cliffs, taking us behind the beautiful Ahwahnee hotel, and onto a small path leading into the shrubbery and up. As we made our way closer to the cliffs we realized that we might be in over our heads, the smooth granite looming overhead. With the base of the rivulets over one hundred feet above us. Yet we climbed on. The ascent got steeper, and evolved from a trial into a rock scramble. Bringing us higher and higher. Finally, the sun spilled over the rock as we crested the base of the first set of tears. This victory was bitter sweet. We found no glorious hot tub, no rush of water from the rock face. Instead just a stagnant pool, no larger than a bathtub. Perhaps it was to late in the season, perhaps the true hot tub stood at the top of a vertical 100ft climb from this one. Perhaps this secret of Yosemite is nothing more than a myth. Regardless, the views of the valley were the most surreal. Just high enough to obscure all roads, and structures, and far enough away to muffle the sounds of busses and tourists. The valley looked as it should, untouched. The view I can only relate to something John Muir would have seen while hiking the valley over 100 years ago.
Far from an all day adventure, departed from devils hot tub, in search of some real water to soak our sore muscles in. We settled on the super touristy Bridal Vail Falls, figuring we could out climb most of them, and they would be to pansy to get in the cold water at the base of the falls. We were right. The quarter mile up to the tourist base of Bridal Vail was packed. We felt like sheep being herded towards the slaughter, a big change from the solitude of devils hot tub. The climb to the base was quick, albeit slippery near the water, as the spray was relentless. It being a warm day we didn't mind a little spray, and quickly got in the water once there, to the surprise of some of the folks who were gathered around, cautiously dipping in toes. The rocks were eve smooth enough to serve as a basic water slide, of which I took full advantage.
The remainder of the day we spent swimming in the Merced river, basking in the sun on a sandy beach, jumping off of bridges, and avoiding Dirty Man. Another day for the record books, tomorrow. El Capitan!

Day 51

This morning we are getting a later start than usual on the 18 mile hike up the backside of El Capitan. The decision to start a little later was made partially because it will be a more level hike once we reach the top. Of the falls, and partially because the trailhead is located right next to Camp 4. On the trail by nine we figured we would be back in camp just in time for the sun to set.

9:00am

The first 3.5 miles of the trail were the steepest switchbacks we have encountered on this trip. We counted over 60 switches to the top, and in some places they had to lose altitude in order to get past a cliff. We didn't look forward to having to go back up those spots on our return trip. Nonetheless we pushed on, climbing over 3000 feet to the top of Yosemite Falls. After all that huffing and puffing the overlook was severally disappointing, aside from the stunning view of the valley. Probably on account of how late in the season we are visiting, usually Yosemite Falls is dry by now, and today only has water because of the extreme winter.
Tired and hot from the climb, and disappointed by the overlook, we decided to take a quick walk up river and take a dip to cool off. Oh how that water was cold. It is amazing how much the temperature of the water changes during it's 3000ft fall into the valley. Even the water on the way up to Half Dome was warmer than this. But no matter, it felt good to rinse off some of the sweat, and we have decided to try and get in some sort of water every day we are here. A sorry replacement for a shower.
The hike to El Capitan from the top of Yosemite Falls is a quite, steady, alpine climb skirting along the backside of the valley, and offering occasional views of Tuolumne Meadows in the higher Seirras. Along the way we decided to take a small half mile detour up to John Muirs favorite view of the valley, Eagles Peak. A steep climb rewarded us with nearly 360° views of the valley, from here we noticed we were even above El Capitan! It was spectacular.
A quick lunch, and it was time to hit the trail, and conquer the mighty Captain. We descended from Eagles Peak soon to discover that we would continue to descend, then ascend, only to descend once more before reaching our destination. Of course with this constant up and down we were dead tired by the time we finally conquered the beast, and we still had to make the return trip. Instead of do the usual turn around and come right back, as we usually do, I decided to drink the beer I brought with me, and take a nap. Both turned out to be the correct choice, and I woke, refreshed and ready to make the return trip.
With a spring in my step, and a light buzz in my head, we took off down the trail at full speed. Sun shining, music playing, and life good, when suddenly I swiftly rounded a corner, coming down a hill, and find myself near face to face with a HUGE black bear! (actual color: brown) He was moving slowly upon a log, crossing a stream not thirty feet from me. I quickly backed up, knowing he did not see me. Making my way back up the hill I instantly regretted not bringing anything but my small knife to defend myself. Bah! So Zach and I resorted to the classic, yell and shout and make noise maneuver. It seemed to work, and the bear continued to meander up the hill, paying us no mind. Though our hearts were racing we slowed our pace, and proceeded with a little more caution.
Hiking down was a blur, after the excitement of the bear, and the continually dropping sun, the ups and downs we paid no mind, and before we knew it we were back in camp 4. Tired, hungry, sore, we cooked a quick instant soup meal and read our books. While we ate we overheard Dirty Man say something about a $10 all you can eat breakfast at Curry Village on the other end of the valley, and filed that information away for later.

Day 52

Awoke sore, as we have become accustomed to. It seems fair to alternate long hikes, and break days, and from the length of yesterday's adventure we decided to take today out of the valley. Yosemite is said to be four parks in one, as there are four completely different areas, all a substantial drive from one another. The most famous of these is of course the Yosemite Valley, followed by Toulumne Meadows, Mariposa Grove, and the Hetch Hetchy. Seeing as we have spent our entire time up until now down in the valley, we decided to take the hour long drive up to the Mariposa Grove, where Yosemite's giant sequoias grew.
But before all that, we decided it was about time to treat ourselves, and made our way over to Curry Village in search of the all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet Dirty Man had spoken of the night before. Hoping He would not make an appearance, and put us off our lunch.
The fabled buffet did exist, and at the promised cost of $10! Unheard of in our travels, especially within the national park system. And oh how that breakfast was delicious. Scrambled eggs, bacon, breakfast burritos, and hot cocoa to name a few. We spent over an hour fueling up on some much needed breakfast energy, and took our leave for Mariposa.
The drive was relatively uneventful, although it was nice to see the area without thick smoke covering the road. It seemed to us that the fire was calming, and the valley was returning to normal. This turned out to be a blessing, as the Mariposa Grove stands very near where the smoke was thickest just a few days ago. Giving us a sunny clear hiking day. Although today's hike would only be about 8 miles.
We arrived at the grove, after taking a shuttle from the nearby village, as we were told parking at the grove would be near impossible. This section of the park was broken up a little differently then the valley. With no car access above the shuttle drop, and an exorbitantly overpriced ($40) tram driving up through the grove with an audio tour. The tram being to rich for our blood, we took to the trails. Which ended up giving us access to more trees, and better views then the tram. Which was confined to a winding road, and stopping only at the major attractions. These sequoias differ from the coastal redwoods we saw just a week ago, being thicker at the base, shorter, and much older. Some of the trees here being over 2000 years old.
Our hike took us up to a beautiful overlook, past a fallen drive through tree, and back down past a walk through tree, and a tree with a natural hole burnt through it. Upon returning to the parking lot, and getting on a shuttle, I discovered that my knife had slipped from it's sheath somewhere up in the Mariposa. I was devastated. Hurriedly I transferred to an unbound bus, and had the driver radio the folks at the top, to have them check the restrooms, and the lost and found.
Once at the top I franticly asked the employees if they had seen or heard anything, and tried to find out who was in charge of the lost and found. Finding out that no one had turned in my knife, I sullenly filled out a lost and found report, describing my knife. In case it got turned in. Although I was not reassured, a nice knife like that would usually be kept. It felt like a part of me had gone missing, and my hand kept going to my sheath, only to find it empty. I know I'm making a big deal out of this, but that knife and I went through a lot together. Knife sadness.
Sun dropping in the sky, tired, sore, and sad, we made it back to camp. Instead of sit around and mope I suggested we go to lower Yosemite falls, a short quarter mile walk, and take a swim. The climb up the rocks was an adventure in itself, and the water freezing to the core, but we knew that already, having swam above the falls just yesterday.
I felt totally refreshed, not to mention somewhat clean. The cold water of the valley is the only shower we are getting for a while. When we got back to the camp, Zach had to check his phone messages, and somehow, he had service, and got a call from Jimmy in lost and found. Someone had turned in my knife! Wow what a relief. I was so happy. Unfortunately it was still up at the Mariposa lost and found, and would be transferred down into the valley tomorrow. Oh well, I can go without my knife for a day, and tonight I go to sleep happy. Tomorrow we adventure in the mysterious Hetch Hechy.